Richard Thompson Wildlife Management Area, or Thompson WMA for short, is a gem of a recreational area in northwestern Fauquier County, Virginia. It is close enough for a day trip from the DC Metro area but far enough to make it feel a world away.
The highlight of Thompson WMA is the abundance of large-flowered trillium in the spring. Each spring, around Mother’s Day, the forest floor is carpeted with these showy, colorful flowers for as far as the eye can see. It’s not just the flowers that put on a show. The birds are in competition with the trillium for Best in Show. The stunning colors of birds like the cerulean warbler and scarlet tanager mix with the sights and sounds of a plethora of migrating and residential birds, creating a bird-watchers paradise. A Virginia Department of Wildlife Resource video, Trillium Bloom at Thompson WMA, shares some of the treasures you can find on a spring morning.
The Appalachian Trail runs through Thompson WMA along the crest of the Blue Ridge mountains. Various trails branch off the Appalachian, creating a network of rugged, but rewarding, hiking trails. The trails are multi-use, including equestrians, so don’t be surprised if you come upon a horse or two.
Dress in your finest orange attire during hunting season since this is a popular area for hunters. Deer are the most sought after, but turkey, woodcock, grouse, and other small game are possibilities.
Wildlife management areas are managed for wildlife and humans get the benefit. But that also means that there are few amenities, trails can be rugged, and roads can be rutted. Plan accordingly.
There are 11 designated parking areas throughout the WMA. Cell reception is spotty, so if you plan to meet a friend, make sure to agree on a specific parking area in advance.
Please make sure to follow the permitting requirements when utilizing public land. Anyone over the age of 17 requires an access permit to visit a Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources-owned wildlife management area. Hunting and fishing licenses are required for their respective activities. Additionally, there are special permitting requirements for camping in Virginia’s wildlife management areas.
The striped bass fishery on the tidal Potomac mainstem is closed until August 21. All Maryland areas of the Chesapeake Bay and its tidal tributaries, including on the Potomac, will be closed to any targeting of striped bass – including catch-and-release and charter boats–through July 31. This conservation measure was enacted because hot weather and low oxygen this time of year creates tough conditions for striped bass to survive catch and release – and this high mortality impacts the future of our fishery.
Fishing Report
The Shenandoah system is fishing well and recent storms have provided a small boost to the summertime flows. A mix of smallmouth bass, sunfish and channel catfish are being caught. The water is clear and both the North and South forks are fishable. Water clarity is good, and temperatures are near 80 degrees. Early morning and sunset are produce some nice topwater bites. The mountain trout streams are warming with some hatches occurring.
Anglers on the South Branch Potomac are finding some nice smallmouth in the low, clear water. The sector around Petersburg is popular.
The North Branch Potomac and Savage rivers continue to produce rainbow and brown trout in the management areas. The ICPRB is working with Maryland and other stakeholders to assess water temperatures and looking at how management can be improved to provide better conditions for the cold water fishery.
The upper Potomac River is running low and fairly clear with some stain. Water temperatures are near 80 degrees. The river continues to fish very well this season, and good catches can be had from the mouth of the Monocacy River to Point of Rocks. The downstream edge of the water stargrass at point of Rocks is worth a try, and the river down to Brunswick is productive in areas with rock gardens, fallen trees, and other structure that hold fish. Small plastics fished slowly in the rocks will find fish, often more than one from a given target. Long casts and finesse with the hook set go a long way toward landing a nice smallmouth bass. Channel catfish and large flathead catfish can be taken with lures or cut bait. There is always a chance for an elusive musky. An angler recently reported catching a northern snakehead downstream of Dam 4, and may be a sign of a growing population in the river. Snakeheads have been living in the watered parts of the C&O canal for some time.
In the metro area, temperatures are in the mid-80s with fairly clear water. Largemouth bass are being taken upstream of Key Bridge. In the District, anglers drawn to sparse grass beds. The Pentagon lagoon and Washington Channel are holding bass. Bridge pilings and docks are being targeted with crank baits and soft plastics near the pilings. The lower Anacostia is giving up some bass and snakeheads. The spoils area and docks at National Harbor are worth a try.
The tidal Potomac is seeing clear water and temperatures in the mid-80s. The Mount Vernon, Dogue Creek, and Little Hunting creek are less crowded than the downstream areas with established grass beds. Docks and underwater structure are holding largemouth bass, The heads of tidal creeks with grass are giving up nice snakeheads. The extensive grass beds in Mattawoman. Chickamuxen, and Aquia creeks are good but busy areas. Anglers are using chatterbaits, soft plastics, and other jigs on moving tides. Floating frog lures can bring exciting bites when dragged over the grass beds. Blue catfish will take cut bait most anywhere, but especially the channel edges off Fort Washington.
Fishing activity around the Colonial Beach area has slowed with the closure of the striped bass fishery. Water temperatures are in the mid-80s with fairly clear water. Anglers are finding small croaker, spot, and white perch. Spanish mackerel are coming into the area. Blue catfish are not hard to find.. The slowly increasing salinity from dryer weather is bringing in some sea nettles, and there are a lot of dolphins to watch.
Near the river’s mouth, anglers are finding nice white perch. Croaker and spot are becoming more plentiful. Some speckled trout and red drum are being taken. Anglers are finding some, nice cobia off Smith Point. Some are using cut bait to get cobia, but that also invites bites from cownose rays. Spanish mackerel are being taken by trolling. And when the bite is poor for some species, the ubiquitous blue catfish will usually cooperate. Crabbing has improved with the heat and dry weather.
A wildlife management area (WMA) is land owned by the state that is designed to conserve and manage high quality wildlife habitat. Public access is allowed and encouraged, but the amenities at WMAs tend to be more rustic than your typical state park. Nathaniel Mountain Wildlife Management Area is no exception. The roads can be rutted, and the camp sites are primitive, but a trip to Nathaniel Mountain WMA will reward you with the opulent sights and sounds of the wild.
Photo credit: WVTourism.com
The mountain range, comprised of Big, Piney, and Nathaniel mountains, is the native home to the people of the Massawomeck and Shawandasse Tula tribes. It crosses Hardy and Hampshire counties, just south of Romney, West Virginia.
As the largest, and considered the most important, WMA in the state, the land provides vital habitat for squirrels, foxes, deer, bobcats, bears and many other species. Hunting, trapping, and fishing are popular activities on the 10,675-acre property.
Mill Run, a tributary to the South Branch Potomac River, is one of the larger streams within the WMA and is a popular fishing spot.
There are hiking trails throughout the area, but they may not be well-marked so have a map handy for navigation. For the 4.5-mile (roundtrip) hike to the historic fire tower, park at the base of Mill Run Road. Built in 1939, the watch tower provides an impressive piece of firefighting history (climbing the tower is not permitted).
Grab one of the 75 primitive camping sites (with pit toilets) for a fully immersive experience in nature.
For hiking, camping, fishing, and hunting, the Nathaniel Mountain Wildlife Management Area is the embodiment of West Virginia state’s motto, Wild and Wonderful.
Smallmouth Stocking
The Maryland Department of Natural Resources recently began stocking smallmouth bass fry that have been raised from adult fish that were spawned at the Joseph Manning Hatchery in Cedarville this spring. These supplemental stockings help smallmouth bass populations in the upper Potomac. On June 14 crews stocked a total of 15,000 smallmouth bass fingerlings (two to three inches) in the upper Potomac River at Taylors Landing, Snyder’s Landing, Shepherdstown, and Dargan Bend boat ramps. On June 29 an additional 15,000 smallmouth bass fingerlings were stocked at Brunswick, Point of Rocks, Noland’s Ferry, Whites Ferry, and Edwards Ferry boat ramps. The effort is a response to decreased reproduction from previous years.
Potomac Dolphins
The Potomac dolphins have returned for the summer and seem to be traveling up the river in force. A large pod of the marine mammals (estimated roughly to 50-80 individuals) was seen near the Route 301 Bridge and Machodoc Creek. Spreading some angler hearsay, some have noticed that schools of baitfish and stripers seem to disappear in the presence of the pod and see the dolphins as competitors for fish. Anglers can share their observations with the Potomac-Chesapeake Dolphin Project.
The Shenandoah system is pleasing anglers with good catches of smallmouth bass, sunfish and channel catfish. The water is clear and both the North and South forks are fishable. Water clarity is good, and temperatures near 80 degrees are making the low, lazy waters productive. Early morning and sunset are producing some nice topwater bites. The mountain trout streams are warming with some hatches occurring.
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Anglers on the South Branch Potomac continue to find some nice smallmouth bass, especially in deeper holes Good reports are coming from the Petersburg area.
The North Branch Potomac and Savage rivers continue to produce rainbow and brown trout. Trout management areas are producing, and nice catches are being reported. The trout are fewer in the downstream reaches where temperatures are rising. Most of the action is upstream of Pinto.
The upper Potomac River is continuing a nice summer season. The river is in its low summertime mode and canoes and kayaks will have a navigational advantage over powerboats. This is also a good time for wading. The sector from Point of Rocks down to Brunswick is particularly good. Early morning and evening deliver nice topwater opportunities. During the day, find large structure where fish are concentrated. Anglers are using small soft plastics to probe rock gardens, boulders, and wood structure. A slow retrieve is favored, and the bite can be light. The fairly clear water favors long casts that won’t spook the bass. The Monocacy River is fishing well, although local storms may muddy the water. Smallmouth bass sunfish, and channel and flathead catfish are all biting.
In the metro area, largemouth bass are in the summer mode as water temperatures climb into the mid-80s. The sparse grass beds in this region have anglers targeting bridge pilings in the District of Columbia, where anglers are using plastics, buzzbaits, and crankbaits to probe waters with visibility of a couple of feet. Largemouth, smallmouth and striped bass can be found. The Pentagon lagoon is giving up some largemouth bass. The seawall in Washington channel is always worth a try along with the grass bed. Hard structure in the lower Anacostia are targets for bass and some snakeheads. Anglers are probing the spoils are aby Wilson Bridge with soft plastics and buzzbaits, and the piers at National Harbor are productive on a moving tide. Blue catfish can be caught in most areas with cut bait.
In the tidal Potomac, anglers are targeting hard structure and the few grass beds. Hydrilla patches are emerging, providing some fish cover worth exploring. Anglers are targeting docks and wood structure on moving tides with a variety of soft plastic and crankbaits. The 80-plus-degree water is carrying some stain. The visibility of about two feet improves near any grass beds. Anglers are finding bass in the tidal cuts at Belle Haven. Blue catfish are everywhere, but the channel off Fort Washington is a honey hole that regularly turns up fish of 40 pounds or more. Mattawoman Creek is always worth a look, although the grass beds and lily pads are a very popular spot. The larger grass beds in creeks downstream become the primary target for largemouth bass. And snakeheads. Pohick Bay, Aquia Creek, and Dogue Creek have nice beds of grass worth targeting. Snakehead fishing is very active at the heads of tidal creeks with grass beds in shallow water. Floating a frog lure over the beds on a moving tide can produce some great topwater strikes. Anglers are using strong braided line to get the fish out of the grass beds, where anglers also are using ploppers and crankbaits at bed edges.
Anglers in the Colonial Beach area have seen angling slow a bit. Anglers are finding small croaker, spot, and white perch. Blue catfish are not hard to find. Water temperatures are in the low 80s, with some green stain and mud near creek mouths after storms. The slowly increasing salinity from dryer weather is bringing in some sea nettles, and there are a lot of dolphins to watch.
Near the river’s mouth, anglers continue to report very good catches of stripers in the Maryland embayments and in the St. Mary’s River. The Potomac River proper is closed to striped bass fishing, and the Maryland embayments will close on July 16 (see above). Some cobia are being taken near Smith Point. Some croaker and spot are being caught, along with white perch, which can be a lot of fun to catch on light tackle. A few red drum and small flounder in hard bottom areas round out the catch. Crabbing is improving a little but remains slow.
The Shenandoah system is fishing well. The water is clear and both the North and South forks are fishable. Water clarity will call for some stealth, and the low light of early morning and evening will increase the odds of a nice trout or smallmouth bass. Good reports of smallmouth bass are coming from the Bentonville-Front Royal area of the South Fork. Sunfish, catfish and largemouth bass round out the opportunities. The mountain trout streams are warming with some hatches occurring.
Anglers on the South Branch Potomac are finding some nice smallmouth bass in the deeper pockets as fish concentrate in these areas.
The North Branch Potomac and Savage rivers continue to produce rainbow and brown trout. Water temperatures are rising, and ICPRB biologists are tracking some North Branch trout to observe their response to warming water. The study can help inform management decisions on coldwater releases from Jennings Randolph and Savage reservoirs. Most of the action is upstream of Pinto.
The upper Potomac River is in summer mode, with decreasing water levels and some stain. Water temperatures are about 80 degrees. Visibility is about two feet in most areas. Early morning is a good time to try some topwater poppers and buzzbaits. The section from Edwards Ferry to Dickerson is fishing well. Lander, Point of Rocks with its stargrass beds, and Brunswick are good access spots. Rock gardens and structure are great locations and the fish are spread out. Soft plastic ploppers and tubes are good baits to explore rocky bottoms. The Monocacy River is fishing well from the mouth to the Route 28 crossing. Smallmouth bass sunfish, and channel and flathead catfish are all biting.
In the tidal Potomac, the lack of grass beds has anglers hitting docks and wood structure on moving tides with a variety of soft plastic and crankbaits. The 80-degree water is carrying some stain. The visibility of about two feet improves near any grass beds. The National Harbor area is producing some largemouth bass. Anglers are finding bass in the cuts and channels around Belle Haven. Piscataway is producing some nice fish. The deep channel that runs past Fort Washington is heaven for those seeking monster blue catfish, whose population continues to grow at a concerning rate.
The fish may be somewhat wary in the area after last weekends bass tournament. Run out of Mattawoman Creek, 149 anglers competed and many caught good numbers of fish. The grassbeds downstream were heavy targets for the pros. That said, the pads and other vegetation in the creek is a good place to look for bass and snakeheads. Downstream, Pohick Bay, Aquia Creek, and Dogue Creek have nice beds of grass worth targeting, as well as some of the mats of broken grasses that create floating islands that hold fish underneath. Snakehead fishing is very active at the heads of tidal creeks with grassbeds in shallow water. Floating a frog lure over the beds on a moving tide can produce some great topwater strikes, that require some finesse and braided line to get them out of the thicket.
Anglers in the Colonial Beach area are enjoying very good striped bass fishing this year, and it may be related to the huge numbers of menhaden (bunker) and other baitfish frequenting the area. Anglers are trolling, jigging and live-lining for the fish. A small number of them have been caught with sores but overall the fish seem to be active and healthy. Anglers also are catching some white perch, and croaker. The water continues to carry a green tint, but no algae blooms have been reported.
Near the river’s mouth, anglers continue to report very good catches of stripers at the mouth and up in the St. Mary’s River. The channel from St. Georges to Piney Point is a hot spot. Some nice fish have been taken around Cobb Island. Anglers are trolling channel edges, jigging, and live-lining spot, which are readily available along with other baitfish. The warming water will begin to stress striped bass, and anglers are encouraged to handle fish carefully so that returnees can live to fight another day and contribute to future stocks. Some cobia, croaker , and red drum are being taken and some anglers are finding some small flounder. Some dolphins are beginning to show up at the river’s mouth. Crabbing remains a slow process.
The Seven Bends State Park is named for the twists and turns of the North Fork Shenandoah River as it meanders along the base of the Powell Mountain in northwestern Virginia. It is those same twists and turns that makes one feel they are the sole occupant of this small slice of undisturbed nature.
As part of the Massanutten mountain range, the area is on the ancestral land of the Indigenous nations of Manahoac, Massawomeck, and the Shawandasse Tula.
The Park is one of Virginia’s youngest state parks. It quietly opened in 2020, but the official dedication took place in June 2022 to great fanfare as it joined the state’s 40 other state parks.
There are two access points to the park. The Hollingsworth access at 2111 S. Hollingsworth Rd. will bring you to a large open field with plenty of parking and a kayak/canoe access point. It is tough to reach the river here, so if that is your destination, choose the Lupton access point at 1191 Lupton Rd. This provides a smaller parking lot, but easy access to trails and plenty of fishing spots along the 3-miles of riverfront. Alternatively, you can put your canoe, kayak, or tube in at Hollingsworth access and float the 3 miles (and roughly 1-2 hours) down to the Lupton access.
Smallmouth bass are the most popular fish for anglers; however, you may also spot sunfish, fallfish, largemouth bass, and muskellunge (please follow all fishing license requirements).
Picnic tables provide a nice gathering place for before or after your trek on any one of the 8 miles of trails. Interesting sites await if you brave the steep trails, including the remnants of two centuries old water reservoirs. One is in ruins but the other still provides an abundant ecosystem (and good fishing).
The area is open every day from 6 a.m. until dusk. There are no overnight accommodations (yet, anyways). The park’s Master Plan calls for campground and visitors center focused on environmental education.
Photo Credit: David Brossard, Do You Know the Way to Harpers Ferry (Flickr)
Harpers Ferry National Historical Park, and its dramatic history, have been explored and extolled by many and for good reason. The town is steeped in history, and it is evident as you walk through the historic village with its living history storefronts and gaze upon the imposing cliffs across the river.
Harpers Ferry sits at the confluence of the Shenandoah and the Potomac rivers in West Virginia. It also “sits at the confluence of history and nature” (National Park Service). It is said that history repeats itself, and that is no different for this small town perched at the meeting spot of two large rivers. Few people have made the area home in the past few hundred years, but the transportation possibilities and natural resources meant, “The region was used as a highway, a hunting ground, and a place for raiding and trade,” according to a 2017 NPS Report. The Tuscarora and Shawnee tribes built temporary villages in the area, and it was where Catawba and Delaware tribes would clash.
After a series of treaties, broken promises, and finally, the French and Indian War, the indigenous population moved West and European settlers eventually moved into the area in the early eighteenth century. It continued to be a place of transition as it was repeatedly razed by floods, fires, and war. The people were resilient and continued to populate the area, build up the town, and then rebuild after disaster strikes.
The area is best known for the raid by the abolitionist John Brown, which was considered a pivotal step towards civil war. The town was torn apart by the Civil War. It changed hands, from Confederate to the Union forces, eight times during the war. A beacon of hope that came from the ashes of war was the development of Storer College, a post-war institute of higher education for formally enslaved people. Supported by the Freewill Baptists, Storer College used many of the wartime buildings to grow their campus. Beyond education, the college provided a sense of community. The college closed its doors in 1955 but you can still explore the former campus.
In addition to history, the Park provides access to the Appalachian Trail/C&O Canal Tow Path by way of an adventurous pedestrian bridge next paralleling a busy railway over the Potomac River. Take a detour off the tow path and hike up to Maryland Heights for a stunning view of the town and the rivers.
Each Saturday and Sunday throughout the summer, you can join National Park Service staff as they tell “The Story Behind the Scenery.”
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